Tokyo is a city of contrasts. It’s the most populated metropolitan area in the world, yet there’s little crime. In fact, the Japanese capital is regularly ranked as one of the safest cities in the world. Tokyo’s subways are teeming yet remarkably clean, the multitudes of commuters mostly quiet and incredibly polite—a shocker if you’ve ever ridden the rails in New York, Chicago, or any major American metro, for that matter. There’s a constant dance between the old and the new, as modern architecture adjoins ancient temples, and skyscrapers tower over meticulously preserved green space. Factor in the unrivaled cuisine—also a dichotomy of old traditions and new techniques—and Tokyo is, simply put, one of our favorite cities on the planet.
The Inimitable Gardens of Chinzanso
Much of our enjoyment of Tokyo blossomed from our accommodations at Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, a luxurious, 5-star hotel that embodies this sense of contrast. Located in the bustling district of Bunkyo City, Chinzanso is a far cry from a typical urban hotel. Rather than imposing its will upon the skyline, the hotel offers deference to the landscape through 17 acres of immaculate gardens.
Chinzanso’s gardens are as rich with history as they are natural beauty. As far back as the 14th century, locals would flock to the hill where Chinzanso is now located to marvel at wild pink and red camellias. In 1878, Prime Minister Yamagata Aritomo, who was both politician and poet, fell for the property. He acquired the parcel, erected a villa, and contracted Tokyo’s finest gardener to design the grounds. Unfortunately, these original gardens were destroyed in World War II. But in the years that followed, they underwent extensive rehabilitation before a restaurant opened on the site in 1951. In 1992, Four Seasons Chinzanso opened on the property, and in 2013, the hotel and restaurant merged to form Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo.
This storied past is evident as you stroll gardens dotted with stone monuments and red-painted shrines, pristine pagodas and quaint bridges. Artfully landscaped waterfalls and ponds create an overwhelming sense of calm, making Chinzanso a perfect place to relax after your arrival in Tokyo or before a long flight home. Spring is a dreamy time to visit the gardens, as Japan’s world-famous cherry blossoms perform their floral fireworks. In summer, too, hydrangeas and fireflies light up the gardens. Come fall, Japanese maples turn red and orange, glowing like embers. And in winter, the famous camellias—the flowers partially responsible for the foundation of this hotel—are on display.
Throughout our two-month trip in Japan, we visited upwards of fifteen gardens, both public and private, and Chinzanso’s were in contention for the most impressive. The same can be said for the hospitality we received once we tired of the grounds and headed inside.
Relaxation-Ready Rooms
Photo compliments of Hotel Chinzanso
The hotel itself is expansive and ornately decorated, tiptoeing the line between ostentatious and luxe. The rooms are comfortable, spacious, and plush—think ornate drapes, brass embellishments, heavy duvets, rich, carved wood, marble baths, and views of either the gardens or city beyond. There is the possibility to upgrade to several “one-of-a-kind” suites, one of which, the Japanese Suite, boasts features of a traditional tea room: woven tatami mats, translucent screens, a sunken hearth, and a stone bathroom reminiscent of a traditional Japanese bath house—also known as an onsen.
Soak It In
Speaking of onsens, Chinzanso goes all out when it comes to soaking. For traditionalists, a light, wood and stone-walled onsen is the definition of comfort. A stunning natatorium, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on the lush, jungle-like gardens beyond, is fun for the whole family. And if that’s not enough, Jacuzzi-size, in-room tubs are a welcome respite after a day of travel or exploring Tokyo.
Dining in Style
During our three-day stay at Chinzanso, we ate breakfast each day at the hotel, and got lunch and dinner out while exploring the city. Pro tip: if this sounds up your alley, be sure to book the “bed and breakfast” option. We had a complete breakfast that was brought up to the room one morning—featuring a delicious array of pastries and fresh-squeezed orange juice—and a traditional Japanese breakfast down in Miyuki, one of the property’s nine restaurants. Both were delicious starts to the day and kept us fueled for our exploration of Tokyo.
Your Ticket to Tranquil Tokyo
Our time in Tokyo was brief, as our main objective for our two-month trip to Japan was to seek out the deep snow of Hokkaido, but we thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the city. We spent our days ogling sites and visiting temples, surfing subways and practicing our chop stick skills as much as possible. After long days of action-packed urban adventures, returning to the gated gardens of Chinzanso offered a welcome contrast—like we’d arrived at a nature retreat despite remaining well inside the city limits.
Normally, you can find us in mountain towns, where population is measured in hundreds, not millions. Major metros can feel admittedly claustrophobic, but thanks to Chinzanso and its spectacular gardens, we always felt like we could breathe in Tokyo. Each evening, we hit the onsen or soaked in the tub, relaxed to the max. And each night, we slept soundly, wrapped in a downy duvet in our lavish quarters, recharging for another day exploring the curiosities, cuisine, and contrasts of Tokyo.
